A constructive girl builds an experience
A client once told me, after measuring several clothes in the studio – that I describe the garment as a relationship between him and her body – that there was a structure around it. Well, it’s true – this is my way of planning and shaping – and the description of the item is accordingly: clear parts between them and the white body is built on a certain logic.
This logic dictates the length of the shoulder line, the height of the waistline, the length of the entire garment – depending on the general perception of how the garment should be placed on the body, what relationship it will have with it.
Garment is the boundary of our most private space, of the space closest to the body – and the perception of this space differs from person to person. As a designer, one of my important roles is to define the nature of this space: how much freedom I leave, which parts are tighter, what is the type of contact of the material with the body.
But I only define the range – and the customer chooses from it what suits her best.
How do I know how to direct and recommend?
Most often I refer not only to body shape and proportions but to movements and gestures, and of course to textures and colors that complements the look – and also the character that radiates out.
It’s true: the process requires cooperation on both sides – because choice is a conscious process, and it is part of the ethics of the
: SLOW FASHION MOOVEMENT
Investing in the process inevitably leads to a long-term emotional connection with the garment and appreciation for it.
How do I choose themes/inspirations to build from what is a concept of a design item – or an entire collection?
I usually take a topical issue and look for a visual image of it. Thus were born the images of wing-like hard sleeves, of neck ties that leave an adjustable-sized back neckline, pockets built like the muzzle of a black hole / volcano – or rather rare plant illustrations from David Attinborough’s book “The rare things”, elements that are a cover – just like car rear wheel covers.
So that the mud does not splash – yes, sometimes there is also a humorous or sarcastic wink in the design is the secret “seasoning”.
Sometimes this is a restriction / release of a certain body movement (for example a sleeve that allows extended movement of the shoulder joint, or elbow).
Circles are one of my favorite motifs, it have many philosophical meanings and when used intelligently- circles are very appropriate to the female body order. Circles that are actually “windows” to a different reality and completely lighten the opaque material of the garment.
All my professional life I have been flirting with styles whose main means of expression is form, many times I find my Inspiration un Architecture, especially in the early 20th century, the period of revolutions.
And the deconstructive of the late 20th century (how unsurprising: again the era of revolutions and the end of an era of many ideologies and paradigms).
I came across this picture of the Russian artist A. Rodchenko from 1923 in which he is wearing a pocket suit with leather additions – with stencils for his paintings behind him.
Pic 22.: Photo of A.Rodchenko wearing a very constructive & useful outfit
In fact, I adopt the approach as a basis for everything related to the design and planning of the garment – and put the image stage (planning the shape of the garment, the engineering stage) – as the main stage in the process. I build the garment the way we build an architectural structure: according to the data (dimensions, proportions, a balanced composition of textures and shades). So, it always happens, in every collection. This is my way which is probably related to my sources, also to the field I come from.
Also for the talents and stories that pass through the family: my grandmother Mira
was an engineer – and at the age of 16 I studied and graduated with honors from an Engineering drawing course – a field that fascinated me because I also saw a challenge to my spatial vision – and pleasure in the aesthetic sense because of the special charm , the rare opportunity to enjoy perfect control of eye and hand.
My grandmother Lisa
was an editor at the publishing house – and from it I learned a love for unique stories, proverbs and ancient superstitions.
From Grandma Lisa and Grandpa Nahum I learned to appreciate the traditions of the past, to love history, to love to discover hidden thought curves – and this is for me the motivation to look for images in stories, ancient objects (preferably with a special shape, complicated mechanics, unique story / item with context).
For example, I like to create strong elements and motifs in all the brand’s collections: pockets, stitches and cuts that are emphasized in different ways and smooth additions that balance the garment – both visually (create special proportions) and contribute to physical balance (weight).
From this concept of understanding logic, a value that contributes to comfort, something timeless like proportions and physical attributes – I created the program of my course Garment Engineering.
(The name speaks for itself!)
As someone who started drawing engines – I moved during my studies at the university to drawing and building stage sets (maket) – and today I have been drawing shapes according to body proportions for 23 years – I understand the need to build a simple and easy to understand foundation. . This is how the basic sloper for the Garment Engineering Course is created: a set of basic cuts that you can use to model whatever you want!
More about the course:
To purchase the course, click here >> Garment Engineering
So, to sum up: all my activities, both as a freelance designer and as a teacher and owner of the design school – puts an emphasis on understanding logic, efficiency – and not memorization. When a client measures a dress in the studio, it is immediately and completely clear to her what the pockets contribute to her feeling and also the way she walks, how nice that the vest is balanced on the body and how wonderful that pants visually lengthen the leg.
When students ask questions we (me and the wonderful teaching staff) are always happy to elaborate, delve into, find an accessible way to explain – because only with a solid foundation of understanding can you take off and create